WORDS
Alexander Zagalsky
The power of jewellery is undeniable. Its potency has held fast through the ages, acting as a form of self-expression, an emblem of devotion and a keeper of precious, often centuries-old memories. A bespoke piece allows the wearer to present their inner world to the outside, in a way that’s intimate, empowering and evocative, helping them to shape their identity and showcase their creativity. At David M Robinson, bespoke jewellery also carries a broader message about craftsmanship and collaboration, as in-house designers, master goldsmiths and gem-setters use time-honoured skills to engage creatively with every client, drawing upon their individual style preferences, personal sentiments and life experiences to transform these ideas into modern heirlooms.
The creative process begins with a friendly consultation. This is an immersive experience in which clients sit down with a dedicated designer to discuss precious metal and gem preferences, setting types, stone cut and configuration, and wearability, according to their budget. Unique qualities are sealed into the design from the start, whether the piece is being remodelled or conceived from scratch. Sketches and technical drawings are produced which show the item from multiple angles to provide a complete and precise understanding of its shape, size and proportions.
‘Each piece is different, and we love trying to capture as many personal elements of a client’s story as possible,’ explains designer Bethany Hancock. ‘I love working on pieces that have family significance, too. It isn’t just about the showstoppers – the simplest wedding bands, hand-forged from sentimental gold, are every bit as memorable. Our workshop recently hand-made a special bespoke eternity ring featuring three blue sapphires and seven diamonds; each representing a child or grandchild of the client,’ she adds.
The notion of the custom-made object may be increasingly rare in today’s automated world, but DMR’s bespoke jewellery service ensures that this timeless craft is preserved by using the latest technologies to complement and enhance traditional handcrafting techniques. For example, intricate computer-aided design (CAD) and 3D models show unparalleled precision ahead of the forging, setting and delicate finessing of gold and platinum designs, so that every detail can be explained, explored and, if desired, adapted according to the client’s vision.
‘It is always important to keep progressing while maintaining traditional skills and knowledge,’ explains Hancock. ‘Our clients love having the option to see a 3D rendering, which ensures both parties are satisfied with the design. We also offer in-house diamond testing, which is so important in the current market. Nothing is rushed or shrouded in mystery: clients are able to view our skilled goldsmiths in our newly refurbished Altrincham showroom, who are always happy to share their knowledge with visitors, often capturing video footage of pieces as they are made.’
For goldsmith Alex Pritchard, being able to showcase his work is a highlight and a means of widening the understanding of this craft. ‘I think it’s quite rare to be able to show a customer exactly where their piece of jewellery is being produced. If a client had the time (and stamina), they could stand in our Altrincham showroom and watch their piece being made from start to finish,’ he says. ‘The addition of video cameras streaming to a TV in the workshop gives anyone watching from the showroom an extreme close up of even the smallest details and processes. Seeing how interested customers are in what we do is amazing, it allows us to really educate, and show off this unique skill in a way that’s not really seen anywhere else.’
Whether bespoke jewellery pieces are sculptural, dramatic, minimalist or inspired by the natural world, the client is always at the centre of the art. Recently, however, there have been some interesting shifts towards certain signature styles on custom-made earrings, neckwear and wristwear.
‘Our latest Georgian setting style [which can be likened to a miniature bezel] has become extremely popular. Enhancing the shape of a stone, it is a beautiful alternative design,’ explains Hancock, who also notes a growing desire for exceptional coloured gemstones. ‘There’s a real interest in paraíba tourmalines. We have also made some striking pieces with accents of rose gold and pink diamonds. These rare, coloured diamonds add such a special and romantic detail to a one-of-a- kind commission,’ says Hancock, whose favourite part of the process is the big reveal when customers are able to meet the makers: ‘The collection of a bespoke piece is always a special occasion, our showrooms teams make sure of that!’
Visit DMR at 32-33 Jubilee Place, Canary Wharf E14 5NY; davidmrobinson.co.uk