WORDS
Eleanor Pryor
An openworked dial is one of the most demanding processes in watchmaking; when the heart of a timepiece is fully showcased, it has to not only impress with its technicality, but be visually arresting enough to be on permanent display. It’s an art that Audemars Piguet honed in the 1930s, and then later revisited in earnest in the 1970s when it set up its first dedicated openworking workshop under the ambitious vision of then managing director Georges Golay.
The skill first made its debut in a Royal Oak in 1981, and, as this iconic watch collection celebrates its 50th anniversary, Audemars Piguet is presenting one of the most impressive examples yet. The crowning glory of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked is the newly developed Calibre 7124, which is as precise and powerful as it is beautiful.
The movement is an openworked take on the new Calibre 7121, which powers another recent Royal Oak release. Incredibly slim, it measures in at just 2.7mm in height while also containing more energy than preceding calibres thanks to its larger barrel. Other enhancements that demonstrate the watchmaker’s in-house expertise include a slim oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings that uses two reversers to ensure bidirectional winding, while inertia blocks have been directly inserted within the balance wheel to avoid friction.
The watch comes in two versions, each bringing a different aesthetic. A contemporary stainless-steel model is matched with a slick rhodium-toned openworked movement with contrasting pink-gold details across the hour markers, hands, gear train and balance wheel, as well as the oscillating weight.
Meanwhile, the dressier pink-gold case of the second timepiece is married with cool grey tones across the bridges, mainplate and barrel. Both come presented on a bracelet in a matching material, which – like the movement – is impeccably finished, featuring alternate satin-brushed and polished detailing.