Vacheron Constantin is a name that sends both watch nerds and novices into a frenzy – and in the constantly ticking horology game, the Geneva firm is always keen to pull a fresh surprise from its cuff.

Its Overseas model, launched in 1996, takes inspiration from the spirit of travel and has been riding high of late with the appetite for integrated bracelets and mid-century design at its zenith. The Overseas has been reimagined by the maison over the years in an array of novel forms, including perpetual calendar and skeletonised iterations in a spectrum of precious metals. Now, the house has pulled out all the stops for its sporty flagship, with the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery, which, as the name suggests, blends both haute watchmaking and jewelling prowess. The 42.5mm model is set with 85 white diamonds totalling 3.61 carats and has an in-house ultra-slim movement cased up in 18 carat white gold. ‘This timepiece represents a magnificent compromise between a technical watch with a sporty look and more formal models,’ explains Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director of Vacheron Constantin. ‘[It’s] for all devotees of high watchmaking who appreciate a precious touch.’

At first glance, it might seem counter-productive to embellish a sports watch with precious stones, but if all the cashmere tracksuit bottoms seen sauntering down European catwalks are anything to go by, it was only a matter of time before athletic timepieces received a similar treatment. ‘For some time now, the “sporty-chic” segment has been experiencing strong popularity,’ says Selmoni of the maison’s decision to create this timepiece. Vacheron Constantin has designed gem-set pieces in the past, but these were largely marketed to women. And with modern men getting more experimental with jewellery, the maison knew the time was ripe to offer wrist bling for the boys, too.

What sets the maison apart from other watchmakers who ice their designs is its own team of artisans, which includes gem setters, so it has full control over the production process. For this particular feat of high watchmaking, it even fashioned its own cut for the 85 white diamonds set into the piece, for a truly distinctive look. ‘Compared with the 58-faceted brilliant cut diamonds most widely used in the jewellery world, the baguette cut [we’ve used], with its 25 facets, features an edgier, more graphic look that emphasises the diamond’s purity rather than its brilliance,’ explains Selmoni. The dial has also had an icy facelift, with diamond hour markers and 18 carat white-gold hands, set against a lacquered blue dial.

Despite all this fine stonework, the maison hasn’t left practical merit on the workbench, with a quick-change strap system that lets you switch from the 18 carat white gold integrated bracelet to a rubber or calfskin option, without the need for tools. The leather and rubber strap buckles are also set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds, making it possibly the most decadent quick-change trio on the market.

The complex beauty of the engineering isn’t just at surface level, either. The watch incorporates a tourbillon, a complex cage-like mechanism that constantly spins the time-regulating components of the movement to offset the effects of gravity, with the aim of improving time-keeping accuracy. Fitting this inside the Overseas’ lean 10.39mm case and 5.65mm movement required a Houdini-like effort, as Selmoni explains. ‘This type of construction entails [two sets of] difficulties. The presence of an oscillating weight [for self-winding] and the integration of a tourbillon cage generally [mean] additional movement thickness.’ The solution was to refine the proportions of the tourbillon itself to ensure it didn’t compromise the signature streamlined elegance of the Overseas.

It’s certainly a watch that takes the term “sports luxe” to a new level. But you’ll definitely want to keep this bobby-dazzler well away from any rough-and-tumble pursuits.

£POA; vacheron-constantin.com