Luxury steel sports watches are so ubiquitous these days that it’s hard to imagine just how huge the impact was when the first examples started to appear on the market. Leading the way was Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak in 1972, a bold design anticipating the needs of changing lifestyles and loosening dress codes. The creation of legendary watch designer Gérald Genta, and counted among his greatest masterpieces, this iconic timepiece made a statement with its distinctive octagonal bezel with hexagonal screws and stylised integrated steel bracelet. It came to be affectionately known as the ‘Jumbo’ due to its 39mm diameter, which while considered large by the standards of the time now cuts a sleek profile when compared to contemporary equivalents.

As the Royal Oak reaches its landmark 50th year Audemars Piguet is celebrating in style, including unveiling a collection of four timepieces that pays homage to these first models while showcasing the watchmaker’s continually evolving approach to timekeeping. With this in mind the new Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin is the first to house the Calibre 7121, a 3.05mm movement developed in-house to fit its extra-thin case. 

As well as its svelte silhouette, there are a number of other enhancements. Thanks to its new construction, with a larger barrel that confers more power, it is now more precise for a longer period of time. It is also equipped with a central oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings that uses two reversers to ensure bidirectional winding. This has been openworked in 22-carat gold matched to the colour of the case and taking the form of the ‘50 Years’ logo. 

Elsewhere, much care has been taken to retain the signature Royal Oak look that collectors know and love. One of its most defining details is the ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial, achieved through a complex manufacturing process that sees hundreds of miniature pyramids intricately carved onto the dial’s thin metal plate. The stainless steel model also echoes the original’s ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ hue. Developed by Geneva-based specialists Stern Frères, it was first obtained by immersing each dial in a galvanic bath, the final blue colour affected by the smallest changes in formulation of the mixture, duration and temperature. Today this has been replicated through PVD for a more homogenous finish. 

There are further small nods to those first models that provide a sharp finishing touch. These include the ‘bathtub’ shaped hands, the shape allowing the luminous material to be applied for optimal legibility. Meanwhile, it retains the polished AP monogram at 6 o’clock, as well as the text ‘Audemars Piguet Automatic’ at 12 o’clock. 

Two versions in pink gold and yellow gold respectively bring a further luxe edge. The former is paired with a grey dial, while the latter has complementary yellow-gold tones. Both have been achieved through the galvanic bath technique, with the smoked effect created by carefully spraying coloured varnish onto the dial’s periphery. Completing the set is a platinum take, presented with a modern smoked-green dial and available exclusively from Audemars Piguet boutiques. 

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