The outline of a watch is an important first impression. A company might make lots of different shapes, but there will generally be a signature silhouette that announces the brand from a distance, long before you can read the logo. The Richard Mille signature is more recognisable than most; a big bold tonneau, or barrel-shaped case. There is now a new shape in town, with the launch of the rectangular RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat.

This is not the first differently shaped Richard Mille. In fact, the new one is named in tribute to an earlier rectangular watch, the RM 016 from the 2000s. But that was produced in fairly small numbers in the company’s early days and – along with the occasional round case that they make – hasn’t done much to change the perception of how a Richard Mille looks. This new watch is different, as it is a flagship launch in two versions, along with its own purpose-built movement. 

The first version has a fully titanium case matched to an off-white composite band. The second is made from Richard Mille’s proprietary composite material, Quartz TPT, rendered here in a new colour of terracotta, also with a matching strap. In both versions the case is curved to fit the wrist, and the size is reduced slightly from the earlier rectangular watch, measuring a pretty universally wearable 45.64mm long and 36mm across. 

The shape may be the first thing you notice, but the movement does not take long to make itself known. The automatic-winding Calibre CRMA9 is heavily skeletonised beneath an open-worked dial, with as much material as possible shaved away so that the workings can be admired from both sides. A standout feature on the back of the watch is the winding rotor – an angular, tailfin-shaped oscillating weight made from platinum and fitted with two grade 5 titanium inertia blocks. The rotor is mounted on ceramic ball bearings for a smoother spin, and it winds to a maximum power reserve of 50 hours, pretty good for a calibre that is a shade over 4mm thick.

You do not expect a watch like this to be designed for diving, but Richard Mille does pride itself on being as tough as possible, and the RM 16-02’s three-part case is sealed using titanium screws and a highly resistant elastomer called nitrile. It offers 30 metres of water resistance, should you be carefree enough to go splashing around in a watch costing deep into six-figure territory.

In the launch literature, Richard Mille has paid tribute to Brutalism, the post-war architectural style that favoured raw concrete and designs that were functional rather than fancy. The stark angles and exposed screws can definitely be called Brutalist, but this is also a deeply artistic watch. The stylised hour markers are a good example – at first difficult to interpret, they bring the hours to life in what is described as a “threadlike decal” that “runs through the skeletonised maze of the movement”.

Over the last two decades, Richard Mille has helped redefine the luxury watch market, carving out a very decent chunk all for itself. The barrel shape that has taken the business this far is not going anywhere. This is an interesting addition to the collection, but does not change how they do business. This rectangular watch, whether you see it as Brutalist wrist architecture, artistic flight of fancy – or a bit of both – is still very much on-brand. The outline is different, but even from a distance you are still going to know it’s a Richard Mille.

Richard Mille RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat, POA; richardmille.com